Tuesday, November 23, 2010

A Full House

One of Manna Project International’s founding tenets is to foster communities of young adults and encourage them to use their passions and education in service to communities in need. In accordance with this mission, the organization has campus chapters at 11 universities which not only raise awareness for international issues and fundraise for MPI programs, but also that send groups of students to live and serve at MPI’s three permanent sites during their spring and summer vacations. This March, MPIG will host 2 groups of 10 volunteers from Vanderbilt University and University of Georgia who will stay with us for one week each. Later in June and July, we will have 8-10 summer volunteers who will live with us for 4 or 8 weeks.

This past week, MPIG and I were fortunate to have a taste of life with short-term volunteers as we were joined by five wonderful people who lived with us and helped out at camp. Hailing from Colombus, Ohio, Jason Kluk-Barany and Sean McGrew arrived at the MPI house after travelling throughout Latin America for the previous month. With no hesitations, they jumped right in helping with the Art and Sports programs at our summer camp. So helpful and energetic (they even cleaned our kitchen!), we were so sad to see them leave after a week.

Dana’s friend from Engineers Without Borders in Ecuador, Mark “Marco” Rohan, also stayed with us for a week. He is also on a month-long Central American vacation from his job as a mechanical engineer, testing weapons and completing system improvements for the Navy. Definitely a smart cookie, he assisted our Science program and even led his own class about water filtration. He left on Friday to climb the highest mountain in Central America, Tajulmulco, with Dana and continue on with the rest of his adventure.

We were also fortunate to be joined by Chris Barry. Originally from Dallas, Texas, Chris currently works for the non-profit organization Hug it Forward dedicated to both the environment and education system in Guatemala. Normally stationed in the Alta Verapaz region, Chris came and helped run a special program at camp, in which we focused on the importance of recycling and environmental responsibility. The campers watched an episode of LIFE, did fun crafts with recycled bottles, learned about bottle schools and stuffed their own bottle with trash. At the end of the program, numerous campers approached Chris and us with questions about bottle schools and recycling. We were so glad to have Chris present to help motivate the campers about environmental stewardship.

Finally, our last volunteer Kate Bennett will be staying with us for a total of three weeks. After farming her way through Argentina with WWOOF (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms), Kate received a grant from New York University to research non-profit organizations working with indigenous populations in Guatemala. She is also writing a blog for Idealist.org, a website that allows non-profit organizations from around the globe to exchange resources and identify supporters and volunteers. Our 7th roommate for 3 weeks, Kate has brought a new spark of enthusiasm and optimism to the house. She has not only provided much needed manpower and energy for our summer camp programs, but she has also contributed valuable insight on upcoming projects and we are so thrilled to have her staying with us.

After five months of life here in Guatemala, I can’t tell you how refreshing it is to see our work through five fresh sets of eyes. The past week has really re-energized our mission, work, and general everyday life. To our five new friends, we cannot thank you enough. To all our future short-term volunteers, can’t wait to meet you. Insert cheesy friendship quote here, I can’t bear to choose just one.

Ginny

Friday, November 5, 2010

So If You Haven't Already Gathered that I Am Somewhat of an Optimist...

Recently the city government has closed the highway connecting Sololá and Panajachel in order to reconstruct several sections of the road that collapsed or were buried during the torrential rainstorms of September. Originally a 15 minute chicken bus ride, the trip to Pana now consists of a bus ride to San Jorge, a pick-up truck adventure through the jungle to Jaibal, and a short boat ride from Jaibal to Pana. Altogether, the detour is not too taxing.

Interestingly, before the creation of this new route, Jaibal was a veritable ghost town. Located on a steep descent down the mountain from San Jorge, Jaibal previously possessed several casitas, electricity, and even a school, yet it had no residents to inhabit them. On one occasion, Hudson and Jared accidentally ventured to the area, and compared it to a ghost town depicted in old Western movies. Nevertheless, Jaibal is now a populated and nearly thriving aldea. Within days of the highway’s closing, several Guatemalans settled in the abandoned houses and labored strenuously to construct public restrooms, eateries, and three docks for the boats to Pana. Marveling at the speed in which the local people accomplished these developments, I was struck by 2 realizations: one regarding the constant effort and persistence exerted by Guatemalans in Sololá, and two, the people’s unity and resilience during times of need.

Many Americans tend to equate poverty with laziness. In the American culture of “the self-made man,” we believe that anyone can overcome his socioeconomic origins with enough hard work, dedication, and self-motivation. A person living in poverty must therefore not be trying hard enough or using all of their available resources. However, living in Sololá and working in Chaquijyá, I constantly witness real poverty: poverty in which malnutrition plagues child health, poverty in which 12 year old children do not attend school because they must undertake unskilled jobs to earn money for their families, poverty in which my students will tell me casually of their siblings who died from diarrhea. I constantly see poverty and impoverished people, yet I will testify that these same people work harder than any other population I have yet encountered. Every day, man and children literally climb mountains with over 50 pounds of lumber on their backs so that they might warm their families’ homes. Every day, women face the elements at the market from 7am until 5pm so that they might sell the crops harvested by their families. In only a few days, men cleared the disheveled road to Jaibal and constructed three sturdy docks so that other people might travel to Pana.

Yes, I do believe that the United States is the land of opportunities, and I love the idea of self-empowerment, but I do not agree with the negative connotations of poverty that arise from this mentality. Though corruption and lack of resources may thwart their efforts, I have so much admiration and respect for the productivity and dedication of the local Guatemalans.

My second realization concerned the ability of Guatemalans to unify and cooperate in times of crisis. Having witnessed the rapid construction at Jaibal and the dozens of locals who halted their daily lives to clear landslides and aid the victims of the flooding, I was amazed at how the Guatemalan people can so willingly and readily volunteer their limited resources and time to help the larger community.

I then realized that this unity is not only particular to Sololá, Guatemala. After Katrina, residents of New Orleans reached out to each other to provide tangible and emotional support. Likewise, during the power outage that afflicted New York City several years ago, the stereotypically unfriendly New Yorkers went out of their way to assist lost and scared individuals. Following the earthquake in Haiti, thousands of doctors, NGO’s, and volunteers rearranged their schedules to aid the victims and reconstruction.

This ability to unify in times of need is indeed a universal trait of the human race and gives me hope in the world’s future. Newspapers and television may portray the world as violent and corrupt, yet I don’t see that. For every instance of suffering in the world, there are 10 instances of compassion and unity. I feel so fortunate to live in a place where these positive qualities are so evident.

Monday, November 1, 2010

School's Out!

Here in Guatemala, November is truly a joyous month. Not only does November mark the beginning of the dry season and Navidad preparations, but for children, the month also signifies summer vacation. Although most Guatemalan children neither travel nor attend summer programs as is customary in the United States, summer vacations still constitute a welcomed break from daily classes and a chance to spend time with friends and family.

For vacaciones in Chaquijyá, the MPIG team and I have decided to direct an educational summer camp for the students of la Primaria Central. During initial conversations, numerous community leaders of Chaquijyá expressed the desire for a program that would help stimulate children’s interests in academics and motivate them to continue their education at the Básico level. Having begun to form relationships with the children at la Primaria Central, we decided that a summer camp for our students would be an ideal mechanism to address this community-expressed need. Directing a summer camp would not only allow us to maximize our time with the students, but it also provides us with greater flexibility in the variety of activities we can offer, as our pursuits do not interfere with the topics and demands of the school-year curriculum.



Additionally, during the summer vacations, most students assist their parents’ work in farming or shop keeping. Community leaders have expressed that the children’s summer contributions are not essential to their families’ livelihoods, yet Chaquijyá currently lacks any educational or recreational enrichment programs to occupy the students’ free time during the vacation. Without any convenient opportunities for external scholastic stimulation, the children of Chaquijyá do not continue to develop mentally during the summer, and they do not receive the necessary additional encouragement to pursue higher levels of education.



Thus, we have created a six-week summer camp, and we have successfully completed our first week of the program. Held on the school’s campus, the camp currently hosts over 100 participants, who are divided into four groups, determined by age. Groups attend programs in English, Science, Arts, and Sports that all relate to the camp’s theme of “Un Viaje Alrededor del Mundo” (A Trip around the World). As most of students will never receive the opportunity to venture abroad, we chose an international theme, so as to introduce children to the unfamiliar topic of foreign cultures and also to stimulate an interest for learning in general. Every week, we gear our programs to focus on the cultures of different continent. For example, last week, the children ventured to North America, where they played volleyball in Sports class, made Native American dream catchers in Art, constructed and exploded volcanoes in Science, and learned the numbers in English. All of the participants have “passports” that receive stamps when they have completed an activity on each “continent.”



I am particularly excited for our special Thursday programs. Instead of normal classes, Thursdays consist of special activities designed to provide the children with hands-on experiences in which they can serve the community and have fun. For our first Thursday program, we will be showing Wall-E and then leading a trash clean-up activity, in which students will compete to fill the most trash bags with trash picked up from the community. Other programs will consist of painting a mural on the school grounds, recycling and health seminars, and even our own version of the Olympics.



With only a few logistical flubs, last week’s programs ran very smoothly and all the campers seemed to enjoy the classes. I was so happy with last week’s success and I cannot wait for the upcoming six weeks. Stay tuned for more to come on sustainability issues regarding camp and updates on other programs’ development.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

Reflections from Retreat

As always, time here in Sololá is flying by. Not only have we finished our first English program, but yesterday my group and I also returned from our first Manna retreat. At every MPI site, PD’s must take a group retreat once every quarter to debrief, unwind, and discuss our programs and personal growth throughout the past months. For our first retreat, my group and I decided to visit the city of Quetzaltenango, more commonly known as Xela, which is located about two hours away from Sololá. As one of our group’s Social Chairs, I was in charge of planning the excursion, and I was so pleased with the trip’s success. Not only were we able to reflect on several issues, but we also bonded as a group. Overall, the retreat provided an excellent break between the end of English classes and the beginning of our summer camp which will start this Tuesday.

Leaving on Wednesday morning, my group and I arrived in Xela just in time to settle into our hostel and enjoy some “family time” watching the Yankees/Rangers game with Dana, our resident Yankee’s fanatic. We spent the next three days enjoying a break from our standard diet of beans and tortillas at numerous delicious restaurants, discussing various international development theories, and experiencing cultural sites near Xela. Like most major cities in Guatemala, Xela hosts an interesting mix of Mayan and “Western” culture. Traditionally dressed women sell fruits and handicrafts outside of McDonalds, the large Catholic church possesses a bright yellow façade painted with both Roman saints and jaguars, and the local market is located next to the shopping mall, which by the way has a movie theatre and a food court with both Burger King and Cajun Grill. Altogether, it is very interesting.

For me, my favorite activity was our excursion to the one, the only Parque Acuático Xocomil, Guatemalan’s own famous water park. Striking me as a Guatemalan version of Disneyland, Xocomil boasts replicas of several Mayan ruins and themed rides, and it has become the most popular tourist attraction in Central America. Although I managed, per usual, to make a spectacle of myself screaming my head off on several rides, we all had so much fun at the park and in true tourist fashion, I bought a tee shirt.

Xocomil and its neighboring thrill park Xetulul are run by IRTRA (Guatemalan Private Enterprises Workers’ Recreation Institute), an organization that directs several amusement parks throughout the country. IRT RA employees and their families receive several benefits, including entrance to the parks, and the organization’s revenues profit the overall national economy. Nevertheless, while IRTRA possesses these positive features and I greatly enjoyed my visit to Xocomil, I cannot help but feel conflicted about the park. Every day, Xocomil uses copious amounts sanitized water. However, in the neighboring villages located less than 10 minutes from the park, children frequently become sick and die from parasites they contract from contaminated water. With their replicas of temples and artifacts, Xocomil glorifies Maya history and culture, yet the park does not aid the thousands of Mayas that live in poverty and do not have access to nutritional food or clean water.

This problem extends beyond Xocomil. Indeed, I believe that the global tourist industry fuels innumerable similar contradictions in developing countries. Far too often do we admire Mayan clothing, without admiring the person inside. Too often do we praise the historical accomplishments of a certain culture, and then fail to acknowledge the current struggles and resilience of that culture’s living population. Too often do we hide in resorts and eat the area’s “traditional” meals, while the resort’s cook cannot afford to eat his own culture’s food that he prepares every day.

Overall, I believe that the tourism industry has made a significant positive impact on developing countries’ economies, and therefore should not be written off as evil or destructive. I also believe that attractions like Xocomil provide a space for fun and reflection, both of which have value. Nevertheless, next time I go to Xocomil, or any other resort in a developing country, hopefully I won’t ignore the woman and child selling fruit on the side of the road. I must remember to give thanks for everything I have, and to do what I can for those who struggle.

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Family Matters

There we were. Four gringos in a chicken bus named Maria Luisa, a retired American school bus decorated with religion maxims and pictures of Jesus Christ on the Crucifix. Careening around narrow curves on the landslide-prone InterAmerican Highway at full speed, we speculate when the bus received its last inspection and the vehicle’s actual recommended capacity. Like sardines, we are packed three in each seat, while a fourth traditional Maya person practices “Mayan Levitation,” and somehow manages to span the aisle between the two seats and sit as if in a chair. I pray that Maria Luisa’s breaks do not fail and I calmly listen to the dance club reggaeton blaring through the bus’s speakers. Somehow, this treacherous ride has ceased to frighten me. Using them for almost all daily travel, I mount a chicken bus and suddenly experience a strange feeling of homecoming.



I constantly marvel at the extent to which Sololá feels like home. With its postcard view of Lake Atitlan and the three bordering volcanoes, its bustling market, the colorful huipils (traditional dress) of the local women, the abundant stray dogs, the general friendly atmosphere, and obviously the chicken buses, Sololá has become familiar and homey, while simultaneously surprising me frequently with its quirks and customs. Many friends and family members will be visiting me throughout the year, and I cannot wait to show them the house and city which I hold in such high esteem.



The principal explanation for my attachment to Sololá lies in the familiar relationship of my team. It’s true; my 5 coworkers and I are a family. Whether we are sitting around the dinner table joking about the boys’ questionable cooking skills (they seem only able to cook meat), or we taking Christmas card portraits while wearing Santa hats that say “Feliz Navidad,” I am constantly struck by the intimacy, trust, and respect that our group has already established. Sure, we work together professionally as colleagues, but we also live together and consequently share in each others’ struggles and successes. We are each other’s support system, and I know that I can confide in any or all of my roommates about my beliefs, personal issues, and relationships. Heck, we even have pets; our family now includes one spunky yet snuggly kitten named Oliver and a crab named Eduardo that appeared in our kitchen sink and now lives in a Tupperware on the window sill.



Overall, like a family, we may disagree or quarrel, yet we always resolve those arguments because that’s what families do: they put aside annoyance and anger to forgive and understand each other. Throughout these past three months, we have already experienced so many challenges and laughs together, and I amazed at how quickly strangers can become close friends. I am so grateful for these new friendships and I look forward to the remainder of the year.

Peace
Ginny Savage

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Punk'd

So for those of you who are not pop culture junkies, for several years, MTV aired a show called Punk’d, in which goofy yet very attractive Ashton Kutcher would mastermind and film elaborate practical jokes on other celebrities in order to bring the superstars “back to earth.” For example, in one episode, Ashton Kutcher tricked singer Justin Timberlake into believing that the government was seizing all of his property. In other episodes, Kutcher denied Halle Berry entrance into her own movie premiere, and set up Nelly Furtado’s purse as the source of a bomb scare. After every prank when the celebrity is either panicking or fuming, Kutcher would finally appear to inform them that they had been “punk’d.” It is all quite amusing.

It is slightly less amusing when you are the target of the “punk.” Yes, I must admit that this past Thursday, my 5 coworkers and I were punk’d by whom else but the seemingly unassuming, traditional Maya teachers at la Primaria Central. Here’s how it all went down:

Last Thursday, la Primaria Central observed Día del Niño (Children’s Day), a national holiday similar to Mother’s Day, in which adults throughout Guatemala appreciate and celebrate the children. Every year on Día del Niño, not only do restaurants and stores host special discounts for children, but schools also cancel classes and teachers provide special treats and surprises for their students. At Primaria Central, the day was very festive with a viewing of Nanny McPhee in the morning, athletic competitions and activities, dancing, and piñatas. In addition to the baked goods that my coworkers and I prepared for them, the students received t-shirts, lunch, cookies, and copious amounts of candy. Whether from the holiday excitement or from the copious amounts of sugar, the students were bursting with energy and enthusiasm all day.



However, throughout the week prior to the holiday, the other teachers repeatedly informed us that tradition requires all of the teachers to perform dances for the students in the “cultural section” of the festivities. As the resident English teachers at the school, we apparently also needed to perform. Consequently, although we six very rhythmically-challenged gringos were quite reluctant to display our lack of coordination in public, we decided to put our pride aside and attempt to choreograph a dance. After all, the other teachers would be dancing as well, and they had mentioned to us that a payaso artistic (artistic clown) would be performing after us. We might be silly, but at least we weren’t clowns. My coworkers nominated Dana and me to spearhead the endeavor (probably because we own and use several Richard Simmons work-out videos) (did I just admit that?), and so we did what any other girl from the 1990’s would do and chose to choreograph a three minute dance to “Spice Up Your Life” by the Spice Girls. A classic, nay iconic song of my generation.



After practicing frequently throughout the week, we arrived at the Día del Niño celebrations with snazzy dance moves and all the resolve we could muster. As we enter the gate, several teachers approached us and exclaimed: “Good morning! We have told all the students and everyone is so excited for your dance! Are you ready to do it?” Dana replied: “As ready as we’ll ever be! But can we maybe perform after all the teachers?” “Haha,” chuckled Esteban, the school’s principal and former mayor of Central. “The teachers do not dance. Only you six. The whole school is so excited.” We had been royally duped. The “cultural section” of Dia del Niño would include no other dances, no artistic clown. Only us. Dancing to Spice Girls. The teachers all enjoyed a good laugh, while we all stared at each other in disbelief. We got punk’d.



Ultimately, we did perform our dance, and although I still would not consider coordination to be one of our group strengths, we all had a great time. Plus, everyone seemed to enjoy the performance. Not only did several students ask to learn our “traditional American dance,” but we also received a large group chant for an encore performance. Overall, I consider the whole experience to be a lesson in humility. By humbling/making fun of ourselves, I believe that we reached a new level of closeness with the teachers. Also, it seems special that the teachers would feel a close enough friendship with us to punk us. I think we will not tell next year’s team of Program Directors about the “tradition.” It’ll be good for them.

Peace
Ginny Savage

(Video to come soon!)

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Bonding by Drag: the Magic of Backpacker Friendships

Treating ourselves to a mini-vacation, my coworkers and I spent this past Saturday at the infamous Iguana Perdida hostel in Santa Cruz, a small Mayan town on Lake Atitlan. Santa Cruz is a charming town with a welcoming atmosphere and a stunning view of the lake and bordering volcanoes. However, the town’s real tourist draw is the Iguana. Located right on the edge of the lake, the hostel is the quintessential backpacker hotspot. Not only does it possess bohemian dormitories tucked into the jungle of banana, avocado, and palm trees, but the Iguana also provides diving lessons and certifications, a Mayan sauna, hammocks, Spanish classes, weaving instruction, pool tables, guided hikes, kayaks, a library, and a lounge complete with a fireplace and a huge flat screen, cable TV.

Every night, the hostel provides an all-you-can-eat, family-style dinner, in which hostel guests all sit at long dinner table and swap stories of their travels. My friends and I were fortunate to be at the hostel not only for BBQ night (I had been missing BBQ so much!), but also for the hostel’s notorious cross-dressing party that occurs each Saturday. Raiding the Iguana’s costume closet (yes the hostel has a costume closet), we quickly made friends with the other guests as we all helped each other to select the most ridiculous outfits possible. For example, while I sported a fuchsia business coat and a one piece floral jumper that could have possibly once been a bathing suit or maybe an adult diaper, Hudson donned a pink terry cloth dress, cowboy boots, and a sunhat. Lawyers and business men in the United States, thirty-year-old heterosexual men wore outdated prom dresses and sundresses, while two pairs of newlyweds sported tacky makeup and MC Hammer pants. By and large, the evening was a classy affair.

With all of us decked out in the “fancy dress” required for dinner, we ate our BBQ and tried to take each other seriously as we discussed travelling, life, and work. Following the meal, everyone began dancing and playing games like musical chairs, limbo, and other games commonly found at 4th grade birthday parties. The fun lasted well past midnight, until everyone went to bed, fearful of the blackmail photos that were sure to emerge from the earlier festivities.

For me, the evening at the Iguana perfectly embodied one of the reasons for my love of travelling. Throughout my life, I have been blessed to have backpacked in many countries, including the Dominican Republic, the majority of Western Europe, and Germany for the FIFA World Cup in 2006. I have most often travelled alone, but no matter the destination, I have always met fellow backpackers and have left the place with new friends and memories. Innumerable people have shared a similar experience. In hostels, it is very common and almost expected for strangers to meet and immediately make plans to grab dinner or go to a local bar. Somehow, making new friends is just easier when you are travelling.

I believe that these quickly established friendships are not just random phenomena or trivial occurrences, but that they are in fact the most magical parts of the backpacking experience and should not be underestimated or overlooked. Last Saturday, I helped strangers to cross-dress. I cannot say their favorite stores, their political opinions, or what cars they drive, but I can say that we now share a bond, a common memory that we will cherish for years to come. And thus is the magic of travelling. When you meet another backpacker in transit, the superficial facts about his life cease to matter. You both occupy a liminal space, that is to say that you both are living in transit and out of your comfort zones, and this mutual liminality creates profound bonds based on shared experiences rather than common interests or opinions. While the bonds between backpackers are in no way better than the friendships established at home, these connections are special and magical both in their depth and in the speed with which they are forged.

Perhaps the power of liminality applies to even more than friendships. Perhaps, not in the routines of daily life, but instead in the breaks from these routines can a person can best strengthen his self awareness and world perspectives. I do not know if this idea is true or not, however I do hope that everyone can and will seize the opportunity to travel and experience the magic of life outside of their comfort zones.

Peace
Ginny Savage

Friday, September 17, 2010

A Sunny Day for Guatemala

This week has marked a rare occurrence in the Guatemalan highlands. Throughout the past seven days, every afternoon has been sunny. Not only has it been sunny, but it has been warm and downright pleasant.



For those of you who are not familiar with the climate of the Guatemala, the highlands do not boast the balmy, tropical weather that is associated with the rest of Central America. On the contrary, the Guatemalan highlands and Sololá, located 6500 feet above sea level, normally host temperatures ranging from 60°F to the low 70’s. The region has only two seasons of the year: the rainy season and the dry season. Currently in Sololá, we are approaching the end of the rainy season which lasts from May until November, yet sometimes I feel that “rainy” is an understatement. Like clockwork, every day begins with a beautiful sunny morning, and then at 2:00pm, the skies open and rain dominates the remainder of the day and evening. The street next to our house becomes a river, we cannot see out of the windows, and all motivation to venture outside ceases.

Nevertheless, the past week has been gorgeous and sunny. Between drying our clothes outside, opening the windows, and sunbathing on the roof, my fellow PD’s and I have been taking full advantage of the UV and overall pleasantness.



Coinciding with the beautiful weather was Guatemalan’s 189th Independence Day, celebrated annually on September 15th to commemorate the country’s freedom from Spanish colonial rule. Throughout the country, the numerous cities, aldeas (villages), and even schools all celebrate the holiday with their own unique fiesta that begins on the night of September 14th and continues all through the following day.



Absorbing ourselves in the holiday spirit, my group and I celebrated Independence Day with the Primaria Central in Chaquijyá and the event was quite the fiesta. What an amazing experience of the local culture! The festivities began on the afternoon of the 14th with the annual running of the torch. To give you a mental picture of this episode, let me paint you a verbal image. Imagine: 250 primary school children. All of them are running several kilometers around the community, even on the Inter-American Highway next to speeding semi-trucks and motorcycles. All of them are carrying jerry-rigged torches made from recycled tin cans that are strapped to measuring sticks, and that contain burning, gasoline-soaked paper. Imagine further: six awkwardly tall gringos who were not forewarned about the event, trying desperately with their skirts and heavy purses to catch up to the crowd of racing children. Sporting inappropriate footwear for running, two of the girls (myself included) cannot reach the rest of the group. Lacking options, they must accept the kind offer of an old Mayan gentleman, and hitch a ride to the school in the bed of his pickup truck. And so was the story of my Tuesday night. Though full of unexpected occurrences, I loved every minute of it.



Following our jaunt through Chaquijyá, we joined the school’s teachers for a traditional dinner of eggs, beans, and tortillas, and then sat ourselves in the basketball court-turned-auditorium to watch several performances enacted by the students. These performances continued throughout the evening and all through the next day, and it seemed as though the whole community came out to watch. Hundreds of parents, siblings, and friends laughed and cheered as the students performed traditional and modern dances, poetry readings, and popular Guatemalan songs. Personally, my favorite act was a country-western dance to the Spanish rendition of “Total Eclipse of the Heart” (“Eclipse Total del Amor”) performed by five first-grade boys wearing blue jeans, cowboy hats, and boots. No other word comes to mind but this: priceless. Overall, the days’ events were both fun and eye-opening, and I feel so honored that the community would invite my group and me to participate.



Despite all the fun, throughout the festivities, I could not help but wonder why Guatemalans celebrate this Independence Day with such enthusiasm. Once again, the holiday honors the day in which Guatemala gained independence from Spanish colonial rule in 1821, yet this date hardly marked the beginning of the people’s real freedom. Following its autonomy from Spain, Guatemala was controlled by a Mexican regime and subsequently by numerous dictators, military juntas, and corrupt presidents until the recent conclusion of the devastating Civil War in 1996. So why does Guatemala celebrate its independence from Spain? Why not celebrate its independence from Mexico or a dictator, or even the end of the civil war?



I believe that the independence from Spain is special because it represents the beginning of modern Guatemalan history. Before 1821, Guatemala’s past consisted of the Maya history and the Spanish history. Though the two histories frequently interacted, or more accurately conflicted, they were separate and could not be unified from a single narrative perspective. It seems to me that Guatemala’s independence from Spain marked the melding of the two histories into a single story. Whether they originated from Spanish or Maya descent and cultures, residents of Guatemala became Guatemalan in 1821 and their lives became inseparably linked. Therefore, although the country would experience both authoritative and civil oppression throughout the following two centuries, every trial and every success still became a part of a history unique not to Spain or to the Maya, but to Guatemala. Every event has shaped Guatemala into the mystifying and complex country that it is today, and thus the beginning of this history is duly celebrated.



Thank you so much for your support and I will have more to come next week!

Peace
Ginny

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Living in the Land of Natural Disasters

As most of you know, throughout all of last week, Guatemala was afflicted by torrential rainfall, which in turn caused widespread landslides and flooding, and also forced several people to evacuate from their homes. I am so grateful and happy to report that everyone in my group and in Chaquijyá is fine and that our house is still standing, but I cannot say that we were not affected. Although none of our personal experiences were life-threatening, most of us encountered some aspect of the national crisis firsthand, in particular the landslides. Let me start from the beginning:

This past weekend, both Hudson and Dana had returned to the States to celebrate Labor Day with friends and family, and so Kat, Jared, Karen, and I remained at home. Per usual the sensible member of the group, Karen stayed at home in order to relax and prepare for her own upcoming trip to America. However, unexcited by the prospect of remaining in the house all weekend during the rainstorms, Jared, Kat, and I decided to spend our weekends exploring other areas of Guatemala. While Kat chose to visit Guatemala City with a local friend from Peace Corps, Jared and I made up our minds to travel to Xela, Guatemala’s second largest city and backpacker hotspot. All of us greatly enjoyed our trips, but the journeys to our destinations were somewhat of a different story.



Primarily, during her trip to Guatemala City, Kat’s chicken bus was forced to stop because of a landslide that had not yet been cleared from the road. Reluctant to wait for several hours until the bus could pass, Kat and her friend instead followed numerous other passengers and traversed the landslide on foot to where other buses were stationed on the other side. Little did they know, this landslide was the very same slide in the news that had crushed a bus and killed several passengers. While walking through the debris, Kat not only saw the crushed bus, but she also witnessed the removal of bodies from the vehicle. Powerless to help or even avoid the situation, Kat and her friend just continued their walk and tried to be grateful for their own safety.



Likewise, about an hour and a half through Jared and my journey to Xela (which is normally a two hour trip), our chicken bus also was stopped because of a landslide blocking the road. Having befriended two very sociable Guatemalan women, Jared and I followed our new friends and also decided to walk through the slide to the other side. Well, the “one” landslide that we needed to cross was actually four different landslides. After several kilometers of arduous walking, we finally arrived at the end of the wreckage and reached our destination in one piece, yet upon arrival, we learned that we had been even closer to disaster than we had realized. As it turns out, later that day, additional rocks and mud slid down the mountain and buried several men that had been clearing one of the landslides over which Jared and I had walked earlier. Only missing further tragedy by a few hours, I cannot help but feel as though something or someone must have been looking out for us.



As I ponder the past week’s events, I realize that death is an omnipresent factor in the lives of Guatemalans. Not only has the country recently emerged from a brutal Civil War, but the U.S. State Department lists Guatemala as one of the most dangerous countries in Latin America, with more than 25 murders committed every week in the capital city alone. Additionally, between the torrential rain, landslides, earthquakes, and volcanoes (there are 33 of them in Guatemala, 3 active) that frequently afflict the country, Guatemala truly seems to be the “Land of Natural Disasters.” I often wonder: how do these people cope with so many tragedies? How can Guatemalans retain their famous friendliness and optimism in the face of natural disasters and violence?



I believe that this resilience is the product of the common perceptions of life and death. Unlike in the United States where most people cope with the fear of their own mortality either by ignoring death or by overexposing it in video games, movies, or other media, Guatemalans accept and embrace death as a natural component of life. Instead of dismissing death, Guatemalans openly acknowledge their mortality and give thanks for the lives they have led. Instead of allowing fear to dictate their work schedule and personal lifestyles, Guatemalans continue with their lives despite rain or violence. Instead of paying thousands of dollars to spend their final days in the sterile and unfamiliar rooms of a hospital, most Guatemalans prefer to die at home, surrounded by family and friends. In fact, as they lay on their death bed, many Guatemalans even keep their coffin in the room with them. Yes, death is tragic and should be mourned, but it is the final destination of all humans. Perhaps, by only by accepting death, can a person truly live. As my time with MPI passes, I have come to admire this shared outlook, and I realize how much I can learn from the Guatemalans with whom I work.



To end this very lengthy blog on a humorous note (thank you for bearing with me), I experienced my own mini-adventure during my trek through the landslides. In the first slide, I stepped from the road onto the wreckage, and immediately sank up to my waist in thick mud. Luckily, Jared was able to pull me out, but I did lose both of my sandals that I had been wearing. And let me tell you, crossing landslides is one thing, crossing landslides barefoot is a different matter. Apparently, between my lack of shoes and the thick layer of grime covering my lower half, I was quite amusing to numerous members of the road team, who laughed and pointed at me throughout the whole trek. When we finally arrived in Xela three hours later, my shoe-less self and Jared had to negotiate the city until we could find a store in which I could buy another pair. How to make a good impression in a new country 101.

Once again, thank you so much for your support! I can’t wait to give you more updates next week! ¡Hasta pronto!

Peace
Ginny

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Keep on Chugging

Hola! ¿Qué tal? Life and work here in Sololá are more action-packed than ever. Now that we have become more adjusted in our positions as English teachers, my fellow Program Directors and I are diving headfirst into the process of starting new programs, a process both grueling and rewarding. Last week, we met altogether to devise a list of potential programs to investigate, and we came up with several ideas that not only represent our group’s numerous interests, but also address Chaquijyá’s needs and strengths as expressed by various community members. For example, Karen, Kat, and I all are interested in health. Having researched various health organizations and programs online, the three of us are currently working with local health workers and community leaders to form maternal health, general nutrition, and child sponsorship programs. A former Green Psychology major (you just have to ask her), Dana is working with our partner organization Asoatitlan and other environmental groups to start recycling, composting, and trash disposal projects. Likewise, Jared is looking into water sanitation projects, and Hudson is researching potential microfinance and sports programs.

Some of the Kids at Recess

The more we continue our research and meetings, the more I feel grateful to be working for an organization that encourages its Program Directors to pursue their own particular areas of interest. To be honest, this position has given me the most responsibility that I have ever had in my life, and while that responsibility may be intimidating at times, I know that this experience will be so beneficial both for me and the community.

The Entrance to Chaquijya

Additionally, as each of us pursues projects in various topics, I find it so interesting how the different areas connect. Trash disposal affects water sanitation which affects health, which affects all areas of life like education and business. Sometimes, I almost wonder how we could focus on just one aspect of this chain. I believe that I am finally beginning to understand that community development term that is so often misused: holistic development.

Hard at Work Lesson Planning

An unexpected turn of fate, I am also now spearheading our most time-sensitive programs, a camp for the local children and youths in Chaquijyá, and also an ESL program for the teachers of la Primaria Central. Both programs must be up and running by mid-October, and while these tasks are slightly intimidating, I am so thrilled for the opportunities. Primarily, for me, teaching English to the teachers seems to embody MPI’s emphasis on sustainable development. Not only does the program meet a practical need expressed by the community, but it also builds off of the teachers’ pre-existing assets, teaching skills and experience, so that English classes will continue and remain effective in the future without Manna’s help. How interesting is it to be living and working with a concept that I have studied so much! Also, having spent seven wonderful summers at a sleep-away camp, I could not be more excited to create my own program. Camp provides children with a space in which they can both learn and have fun, and I believe that there is always a place for fun even in dire circumstances, among the explicitly helpful programs, such water sanitation and maternal health. Currently, I am meeting with various community leaders to discuss potential locations for a summer camp program, and also camps that have previously existed in Chaquijyá. Hopefully, I will have much more to write in the coming weeks.

More to come soon about the landslides that have been so destructive in Guatemala. Until then, ¡hasta luego y muchas gracias por su apoyo!

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Opening Doors

Hello again!

We are only halfway through the week, and I already feel as though we have accomplished so much. Primarily, Jared and I completed our third lessons in both of our English sections, and the classes were very successful. After playing a hot-potato/categories game to review last week’s material, we then instructed new vocabulary about the “Family” and played a game that required the kids to run to the blackboard and use a flyswatter to slap the correct English definition of a Spanish word (the 4th boys especially loved the slapping aspect). I couldn’t have been happier with the activities’ results. Not only did the usually timid students participate actively and enthusiastically, but the whole classes also seemed to retain more information as the game progressed. In the future, we will definitely continue to incorporate elements of competition and physical activity into our lesson plans.

Now having spent a few days in the classroom, I realize why countless people find teaching to be so rewarding. As numerous children approached me after class to practice their new English skills, I was filled with immense pride and excitement at their enthusiasm and mastery of the material. I can hardly wait for the next class on Thursday, in which we will be incorporating the “Family” vocabulary into simple sentences concerning age.

Equally exciting, after numerous discussions and debates, my team and I have completed our formal program proposals for teaching English. Comparing our lesson plans, required resources, long term goals, and short term objectives for each of our classes, we grappled with the underlying questions concerning MPI Guatemala’s purposes for the program and also the benefits of learning English for the children in Chaquijyá. With the help of MPI Executive Director Lori Scharffenberg who is staying with us for one week (more to come on Lori’s visit in the next post), we formulated answers to these questions and decided upon the following long term goals for our English program:

1. To build relationships with the teachers, students, and parents
2. To prove ourselves to be a reliable and supportive partner organization, as we work to aid the need expressed by the community
3. To empower and motivate children with new choices and opportunities so they may take ownership of their own educations and futures

We will definitely keep these goals close in mind, as we compose our official mission and vision statements for MPI Guatemala later this week.

For me, the most perplexing question that arose from our discussion concerned the benefits of learning English for the children of Chaquijyá. Although building relationships with the teachers and students clearly aids MPI Guatemala’s goal to work closely with the community to create new programs, the need for English in Chaquijyá at first did not seem so obvious. Why is English important for these children, who live in an isolated Maya and Spanish-speaking community? Is English actually useful for various professions in Chaquijyá, or is the language solely a status symbol in the community? Furthermore, in Chaquijyá, many children, particularly boys, do not continue to the next level of schooling after Primaria, but instead they travel to the United States and work illegally in order to earn money to jumpstart future careers as bus-drivers or other similar professions in Guatemala. Consequently, is teaching English only providing more incentive for the children to leave their community and forego additional educational opportunities?

Let me tell you, my group and I struggled with these questions for hours. Finally, we decided that although learning English might not make an immediate impact in the lives of the children, the program helps break the cycle of poverty in Chaquijyá. At its baseline definition, poverty signifies a lack of choices. Impoverished people do not possess the opportunities to overcome their destitution and obtain basic needs such as food, health care, clean water, or education. In the United States, though most children do not suffer the same levels of impoverishment, all students are required to study a second language in their school in addition to English. Why? Because learning a language provides one more open door to students, one more option for students to broaden their horizons and seek their passions in a variety of careers that require the knowledge of a second language. This concept of opening doors and providing options is universal. No matter whether the students live in a wealthy suburb in the United States or a poor, farming community in Guatemala, learning languages provides one more option about which students can become passionate and use in their future lives. By teaching English in Chaquijyá, we give the students another option in their lives, an option which by definition helps to fight the cycle of poverty.

I believe that I have mentioned this next statement in all of my previous blog posts, but in all truthfulness, I am so grateful for this opportunity to be working in Chaquijyá. Every day has imparted new lessons, which continue to challenge and expand my worldview. I hope that MPI will have so deep and positive an impact on the lives of the residents of Chaquijyá, as the organization has already had on me.

Peace
Ginny Savage

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Hitting the Ground Running

Having settled into our house in Sololá, I am happy to report that the Program Directors of MPI Guatemala have hit the ground running. In the midst of fulfilling house duties and organizational roles (I am the Documentarian, Secretary, and Social Chair – so excited for all three positions), the group and I have been meeting frequently to discuss our long and short term visions and goals for MPI Guatemala. Our primary goal is to establish a strong relationship with the community, and we are in the process of planning long term programs with other local organizations and community members. With a little luck and hard work, we should be soon launching programs in recycling, sustainable agriculture, after-school homework help, and English classes for local teachers. In the meantime, we are teaching English courses to 4th, 5th, and 6th graders in one of the local primary schools. Teaching has not only been so much fun, but it has also served as a wonderful entry way into the community, and we are constantly meeting new people and learning about the community’s strengths and needs.



At the primary school, Jared and I are teaching both sections of 4th grade English, and I absolutely love the kids and teachers at the school. We have roughly 30 students in each class and while they have no previous knowledge of English, but they seem very excited to learn. Likewise, having completed our first class yesterday, Jared and I are both very excited as we get to know the children, create lesson plans, and meet with the school’s teachers. I hope these classes will be equally as rewarding for the students and teachers, as I know they will be for us.




Teaching at the school and spending time in the community, I am constantly struck by a realization concerning the universal nature of children. I have worked with various groups of children in very different parts of the world, and I have not ceased to be amazed by children’s optimism and playfulness. Whether in the Haitian slums of the Dominican Republic, in a bilingual day care center for the children of Spanish-speaking immigrants in Washington DC, or in an after-school nutrition program for elementary school children in Nashville, I have witnessed that young children possess an energy and optimism not found often in adults. For example, the children of Chaquijyá live a very rural, poor community, in which most residents still subscribe to centuries-old Maya traditions and language. Nevertheless, during recess, the basketball and fútbol courts are filled with children wearing the traditional traje who scream and play and beg unknown Gringos like myself to join in the games. Girls still love to talk about the “chicos locos” (crazy boys), and will run through the corn stalks to show me the field with the best climbing trees. Boys still compete to be the first to reach the snack room and to see who can shoot the most baskets. No matter the location or cultural context, kids are kids. They want to have fun, learn, and make new friends. I am so excited to be working with these children, because even though I am fulfilling the role of the “teacher,” I know I have much to learn from them as well.


Friday, August 13, 2010

Mi Casa...

Today is a very special day. Why, you ask? Well, it’s because today marks the end of settling into our new house! After several weeks of searching, negotiating, and nesting, we are finally settled into what will be our home for the next year, and the potential home for future generations of MPI Guatemala’s Program Directors. The house is beautiful and already feels like home. Located at the entrance to Sololá, it has three stories, classy red tile floors, white stucco-ish walls, and rich wood ceilings. Personally, my favorite aspect of the house is the view. From our balcony on the 3rd floor, we overlook our neighbors’ courtyard and corn fields, and we can see the plaza in Sololá. Plus, every room (minus the bathrooms) boasts an incredible view of Lake Atitlán and its three surrounding volcanoes. Truly, I feel as though I am living in a postcard photo. What an amazing opportunity to be able to live and work every day in a location so breathtaking!



However, let me tell you, attaining our house certainly was no easy feat. Finding and furnishing the house required teamwork, persistence, and creativity. In a way, I believe that our housing search was the first significant, Manna-related challenge that our group has successfully faced. Here’s how it all happened:
Before the other PD’s and I arrived in Guatemala, our two fearless Country Directors Kat and Dana had scoped the area around Chaquijyá and had found two potential housing options. However, during our stay in San Pedro, we were aggrieved to learn that not only would the construction on one house would not be completed in time for our arrival, but also that the second option would not be as feasible as we had originally expected. Consequently, the team and I quickly had to devise alternate plans to find a home. In many parts of Guatemala, most house hunters do not use real estate agents, but instead learn of available homes through their friends and extended families. While we did not have a large social network in place in Sololá, we decided to see if this same system would also work for us. Thus, following a brilliant idea from Kat, we travelled to Sololá after our morning classes, and divided into groups to post flyers around the city advertising our needs. While posting the flyers, we also met several residents of Sololá and asked them if they knew of any houses for rent.



As you can guess, the plan was successful! With the help of our flyers and the friendly residents of Sololá, we found four great potential houses during that first afternoon, and now we have our beautiful (and feasible) home! Although we encountered some difficulties in installing our stove, water deposit, and washing machine, those struggles are past and I know we are all so happy with the furnishings and layout of the house. I guess our process is testament to the old phrase: “If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again.” Having overcome our first set of challenges, we begin work in the community with our bags unpacked and our heads held high.



Throughout our house hunting adventure, the group and I were also fortunate to receive visits from two of the founding Program Directors for MPI Ecuador. Currently a Spanish teacher in Oakland, California, Craig Smith visited and stayed with us in San Pedro for a week. Besides joining us on our sunrise hike up the Indian’s Nose and many social activities, Craig also greatly helped us as we negotiated with landlords and met to choose the best of the four housing options. Two weeks later, a current MPI Board Member, Zak Schwarzman joined us to celebrate moving in to the new house. With his girlfriend Brigit, Zak took us on in several rounds of the Ecuadorian card game Cuarenta, and I know that the next time we meet, the group will be ready for a rematch. Overall, spending time with Zak and Craig was so fun and also very beneficial for our group. Not only did they share some great stories from their experience in Ecuador, but they also imparted useful and thought-provoking advice, and gave our group a clearer picture of the mission of Manna Project as an organization.



Recently, after meeting Zak and Craig, it occurred to me that everyone I have met from MPI, every board member, every Country Director, and all the past and current Program Directors, everyone has amazed me with their intelligence, dedication, and overall spunky personalities. I feel so incredibly lucky to be part of an organization, filled with such amazing individuals. I know that by working together, we can make a difference, and I cannot wait to see how the year progresses for all three sites and for Manna Project as a whole.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Conclusions and New Beginnings

Hola y Bienvenidos from MPI Guatemala’s new house in Sololá! I apologize for being out of touch these past few weeks. Let me catch you up to speed…

During the past three weeks, my fellow PD’s and I have been living, learning, and experiencing San Pedro La Laguna, an incredibly picturesque Tz’utujil and hippie-tourist town located on the world famous Lake Atitlan. Not only were we able to take intensive Spanish classes every morning, but we also soaked up Maya culture firsthand. Our classes were held at the San Pedro Spanish School, which provided an enjoyable (and much needed) recap of Spanish. Working one-on-one with an instructor, each of us significantly improved our conversation skills and developed close relationships with our teachers. (Please note: the Gringa girls still remain undefeated in the student vs. teacher weekly fútbol games.) All of us were sad to leave the school, but I am confident that we will visit often throughout the year. Plus, for our farewell graduation “speech,” the six of us changed the lyrics to Luis Enrique’s “Yo no sé mañana, and performed it in front of the whole school. I hope we have left our mark.

While taking classes, each of us stayed with host families that lived near the school. I know I speak for the group when I say that all of our families were welcoming and friendly. My host parents not only owned a laundromat and a restaurant (so the food was great), but they also used to work as tour guides. Listening to all the stories about Maya legends and traditions, I received an amazing first taste of the local culture in the Guatemalan highlands, and grew even more excited to work in Chaquijyá for the upcoming year.

For the afternoons and weekends, we spent our time exploring the natural beauty of San Pedro with an eclectic assortment of fellow travelers and local residents. Between scaling the Indian Nose mountain to see the sunrise, bathing in solar pools, horseback riding, attending salsa lessons, kayaking to the neighboring organic town of San Marcos, and learning to make paper lanterns, we all kept ourselves quite occupied. My favorite excursion was our visit to the annual Feria held in Santiago Atitlán. Just a brief lancha (boat taxi) ride from San Pedro, Santiago experienced numerous tragedies during the brutal 30 year Civil War. Because of the atrocities committed during the Civil War, the government now forbids the military from entering the town.

I am continuously amazed by the outlook of the Maya peoples despite the recent tragedies. Practically every Maya alive today lost family members and fled their homes, yet these same people are the most generous, amicable, and positive people I have ever met. An interesting fact, despite the lingering horrors of the war, Guatemala ranks #4 on the New Economics Foundation’s Happy Planet Index. Hearing the stories of the local people and observing daily life, I'm inspired by their resilience, and I am filled with awe at the Maya’s ability to maintain their traditions in the face of discrimination and violence. Although we will be leading various classes in the Maya community of Chaquijyá, more importantly, this year will be a cultural exchange and learning opportunity for us both.

For me, the past three weeks have provided the perfect transition to our new life and work in Sololá and Chaquijyá. Not only have we been able to come together as a group and improve our Spanish, but our time in San Pedro has also allowed us to better acclimate to a new lifestyle and society. Now, as we nest in our house and begin to discuss our programs and positions, my excitement for the upcoming year continues to swell, and I am even more grateful for the opportunities and lessons we have been given throughout the past few weeks.